Dining Out: Between Italy and Greece is...
Angelo’s of Cumberland
01:00 AM EST on Thursday, November 13, 2008
By Michael JanusonisJournal Arts Writer
CUMBERLAND — At a time when downsizing seems to be the rallying cry even as prices continue an uphill climb, Angelo’s restaurant has bucked the trend, expanding to more than double its original size while keeping prices family friendly.
The Kitsilis family opened Angelo’s 30 years ago as a pizzeria that also served subs and light fare. There were only “four or five booths” and, “since 1982 a drive-up window,” according to William Kitsilis, who owns it with his mother Christine, sister Alexandria and brother Paul. But a few years ago, “with lines out the door Friday and Saturday nights,” they realized Angelo’s had outgrown its modest size.
They began a rebuilding process two years ago that went on while the business remained open. “We only closed one day,” said Kitsilis from his Boston office where, by day, he is a corporate lawyer. Last June everything was finally complete, “a total transformation,” Kitsilis said.
Now there are two large new dining rooms, a full-fledged bar and a hugely expanded menu that includes Italian and Greek entrees, appetizers, desserts, salads and more.
Despite all that, however, prices have been kept surprisingly modest and portions very large. You won’t spend more than $13.95 for an entrée here, and many sell for much less.
From the outside, Angelo’s looks like a big Italian trattoria with its tile roof shading a large patio that must be pleasant in warm weather, even though the view is of the parking lot and busy Mendon Road.
Inside, Italy meets Greece.
At the entrance, a long stone-and-brick bar wraps around into the takeout station. To the right, through a doorway, are back-to-back dining rooms. The second room is for the overspill on weekends or functions. The first is separated from the bar by a wall with open windows. There are cheerful pale yellow stucco walls, a diamond-patterned wood floor, floor-to-ceiling windows and huge murals of the hilly Greek island Santorini. Arched “windows” on a side wall hold mirrors rather than glass panes, something that makes the room seem even larger and disguises the fact that behind the “windows” is the store next door. Stone-and-brick pillars give the room a more intimate feel than if it were one big open space. Brown booths line the walls, including a couple of long, curvy wrap-around ones at the doorway to the second dining room. The overall effect is homey and, despite the size of the dining rooms, cozy.
Maybe it was the Greek island murals that inspired my dining companion to order the Santorini Grande Margarita ($9), the heftiest-priced mixed drink on the menu. It was listed as the “house favorite” and it certainly deserved its “grande” billing, arriving in a suitably hefty, thick glass. We figured it held at least a cup and a half of Margarita, a refreshing concoction of tequila, Grand Marnier, orange juice, sour mix and lime juice. My red Sangria ($5), a mellow blend of wine and citrus flavors, came in a tall glass and also was big enough to last through most of the meal.
The menu’s Greek items are limited and include a Greek pizza, the Paulie the Greek Burger, a couple of salads and a calzone, but no entrees. We were eager to sample the Spanikopita ($5.95), always a must when we find it on a menu elsewhere. Happy to report, Angelo’s does this Greek version of a spinach pie right. Four large pillows of baked-to-crispness phyllo dough had a surprisingly rich buttery flavor. They were filled with torn pieces of fresh baby spinach and a mix of Greek cheeses that made it deliciously light and creamy.
We also were happy to find another favorite from excursions to other restaurants: the Eggplant Rollatini ($6.95). Breaded eggplant is rolled and stuffed with a mix of ricotta and mozzarella cheeses, then baked in a San Marzano tomato-based marinara. Although Angelo’s sauce was not as thick as elsewhere, we didn’t carp, for it was flavorful enough. The two rollatini were chock full of the tasty stuffing and were wonderfully gooey to boot.
Because Angelo’s started as a pizzeria, there are of course several pizzas on the menu and Angelo’s still sells a lot of them. They even deliver to a six-mile radius. Kitsilis said that the previous night, after finishing his day job in Boston, he helped deliver pizzas himself. The wide variety includes white (no sauce), Buffalo chicken, “Texas Style” (with barbecue sauce, pizza cheese, grilled chicken, bacon and onions), “Palace Special” (pepperoni, linguica, sausage, hamburger, mushrooms, peppers, onions), Grilled Chicken Stir Fry, Chicken Broccoli Alfredo, Hawaiian, a build-your-own pizza and, of course, a Greek Pizza which we, of course, had to sample. Its crispy crust was exceptionally light and airy. Big slices of juicily fresh tomato, a handful of sliced black olives and spinach, a sprinkling of garlic and feta cheese all topped a whispery base of a light tomato sauce. The Greek Pizza ($9 for a 10-inch pie; $14.50 for a 16-inch) was so light and had so many vegetables we didn’t feel guilty about having ordered it. All the pizza dough is still made fresh daily in Angelo’s kitchen.
Still, after all that pizza I thought better of ordering a big entrée, especially after seeing that the ones headed to other tables that all but spilled off their dishes. A Veggie Calzone ($7.25 small; $11.35 large) seemed as though it would be just the ticket for lighter fare, despite the fact that our marvelously bubbly and efficient waitress, Jacky, demonstrated the size of a large calzone by stretching out her arm and pointing from her wrist to the crook of her elbow.
I laughed as I ordered the large, thinking she must have been exaggerating.
She was . . . on the small side. I had an inkling of what was to come when Jacky returned to plunk a one-pound, 11-ounce can of pizza sauce on the table, saying it was “to hold up the calzone.”
Again I doubted her. Wrong. Soon she returned carrying a half-moon-shaped monster that filled more than half a large pizza pan. It must have been 18 inches long and was cut into 12 generous slices. It was as delicious as it looked, with a crisp brown and flaky lattice crust that held a garden medley — slices of mushrooms, onions, green peppers, tomatoes, black olives and broccoli baked to moist tenderness. It could easily serve two.
Even after sharing the pizza, my never-say-finished friend ordered an entrée — Fettuccine Bolognese ($13.95). The not-so-thick, yet deliciously rich meat sauce included big chunks of ground pork, veal and beef in a San Marzano tomato-based sauce base. It was served over ribbons of fettuccine that were so al dente, however, we’d wished they’d stayed in the pot another minute. It was a sizeable portion, with two big slices of garlic bread on the side. Our only disappointment was that by the time we were ready to order dessert, there was no Baklava left in the kitchen. We’d envisioned it as the meal capper. Not only is the Baklava a Greek specialty, it’s the only dessert that’s made in Angelo’s kitchen and by Christine herself.
Our alternate choices were far from second rate, however. The Tiramisu ($6) was a high brick of cake that was heavy on coffee flavor, more than I’d like, although my dining companion who’d ordered it was pleased.
I feared that my slice of Peanut Butter Pie ($6) might be on the heavy side. But it was an exceptionally light and creamy blend of milk chocolate and peanut better mousse, with peanut butter chips sprinkled throughout. It sat in a rich chocolate cookie crust, with chocolate and peanut butter sauce drizzled on top, with whipped cream. Heavenly as it was, however, I think next time we’ll call first to reserve the Baklava.BILL OF FARE
Dinner for two at Angelo’s might look something like this:
Santorini Grande Margarita…$9.00
Sangria…$5.00
Spanikopita…$5.50
Fettuccine Bolognese…$13.95
Veggie Calzone…$11.35
Baklava…$6.00
Total food and drink…$50.80
Tax…$4.06
Tip…$10.00
Total bill…$64.86
